F.A.Q.

Please visit our Store Policies Page for details on our shipping and returns policies, and our money back guarantee if a pot arrives damaged.

How accurate are the listed dimensions for each pot?

The dimensions for each pot are length x width x height in inches. Each measurement is taken at the widest possible point of the pot and rounded to the nearest (up or down) ⅛ inch. So, the height is always the measurement from the table surface to the top of the rim. It is NOT the internal depth of the pot. Similarly, the length and width are always measured from the outermost edge of the pot to the opposing outermost edge of the pot.

If you need more specific measurements than this, like internal length/width/height, just send me an e-mail at redtailpots@gmail.com and i will get you specific measurements for any pot.

How do I make my pots?

I make pots by wheel throwing, throwing and altering, and hand-building with slabs of clay. Hand building allows me to make more complex forms and “think outside the circle” so to speak. It’s a slower more methodical process that, for me personally, lets me dive deeper into my creativity than the wheel allows. Though the fast, spontaneous nature of the wheel lets me scratch a different itch and compliments the slower rhythm of handbuilding well.

Why is this rectangle or oval more expensive than a similar sized round?

The bottom line is that hand-built/slab-built or thrown and altered pottery generally takes more time for me to produce. Sometimes a very substantial amount of time more than a circular thrown pot, depending on the level of detail and the shape of the pot. So while a similar amount of clay may be used, You are paying for greater labor costs on certain pots.

What type of clay are my pots made with and how are they fired?

All of my pots are made with strong stoneware clays, are fired to cone 6 in an electric kiln, and are vitrified.

Are my pots frost-proof?

Yes. All of my pots are vitrified stoneware with extremely low absorption rates that qualify them as frost-proof. Meaning that the body of the pot itself will not absorb water and freeze resulting in spalling (the breaking apart of the pot from inside the walls). But please keep in mind that no pot is invincible and there are other factors the could create frost damage. For example:

If you create overwintering conditions where the pot cannot drain properly and has standing water inside the pot this could create pressure on the walls of the pot as the water freezes and the ceramic could crack.

In a similar situation, if you choose a pot with a substantial over hanging lip like a “bag” style bonsai pot where the rim of the pot is not as wide as the inside you should be a little more careful about exposing this pot to freezing temperatures. This is because the soil will expand when it freezes and a “bag” style pot will not allow the soil to expand upwards to the degree that most pots would. This puts pressure on the walls of the pot and may lead to the ceramic cracking.

Maryjane Carlson of Whistling Fish Pottery wrote a fantastic article on what makes a bonsai pot frost-proof on her website if you’re interested in learning more about the topic. Also, check out her awesome pots!

Do i take commissions?

I am not taking commissions for custom pots at this time. I am mostly focused on developing my own style and improving my technique. I do plan to take more commission work in the future so please check back. mike@redtailpottery.com

Any other questions?

Please feel free to contact me via e-mail at: mike@redtailpottery.com